Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Adventures in Bali and Lombok

We're fresh off a trip to Indonesia. Here's where we went and what we learned so we can remember on how to improve on it next time around :)

Itinerary:
1) One week in Bali: 2 nights in Seminyak (near airport, unwind post work trip); 3 nights in Ubud; 1 night in Bukkit Peninsula prior to returning home
2) One week in Lombok:  1 night in Sengiggi, 2 nights/3 days hiking and camping on Mt. Ringani and the rest of the week relaxing on little Gili Asahan.

Next time: 1 week snorkeling and exploring the parks in northern Bali (skip everything south of Ubud unless you're on a surf trip; and at least two weeks exploring surf and remote beaches and Gilis in Lombok.

Money:
To avoid people in Southern Bali we paid a lot to stay at a 5 star hotel in Ubud ($200/night). Total trip costs were probably in the $3,200 range for two people for two weeks (airfare not included).

Next time: visit the quieter, non-touristy parts in North Bali and spend more time in cheaper Lombok. Stick to a $100/day budget. Totally doable without sacrificing comforts. Eat more street food -- it's great!

Packing:
We way overpacked! Here's what I recommend:

Swim suit, pack towel, sun hat, lots of sunscreen, after-sun cream, rash guard, surf shorts, low hiking shoes and one pair of socks, convertible hiking pants (pants to shorts), 2-3 t-shirts, 1 sundress, 1 puffy jacket (if hiking Ringani), 1 pair of flip-flops, 1 good camera, 1 sarong.

And you don't even need to pack all of this. You can buy or rent whatever you're missing there.

Adventure:
  • Surfing: amazing swell everywhere you looked. Bali is well suited for the beginner surfer. Lombok is more self-serve.  Bring reef booties, rash guards, and a sun hat. Everything else can easily be rented or purchased. Cheap accommodations are above beach-front Warungs.
  •  Hiking:  Hike Mt. Agung on Bali (single day) or the more grueling Mt. Ringani  on Lombok - three days and two nights. We did Ringani and even though we are good hikers, this wiped us out. It was a really challenging hike. Every day there was at least 1000 m hiking up. The last day was 1000m up and 3000m down. The amazing views and camping were just reward though. As was the naked 1 year old who ran to us screaming and cheering at the trailhead when we finished. 
  • Cycling: It's too fucking hot. Let's be real.
  • Diving: It seems like Northwest Bali and the Gilis on Lombok are the hotspots. We can't dive, but we snorkeled. Snorkeling around the secret Gilis on southern Lombok was good but not near as good as what I've seen in the Caribbean or Thailand. Sea turtles are up by Gili T.
Experiences:
  • Legong dance/gamelan performance:  see this at the Lotus Cafe in Ubud. Enjoy dinner while watching. We were really impressed by the small movements - fingers and eyes. It's very precise and interesting and beautiful.
  • Cooking classes: Balinese recipes are simple and good. Take a class at an organic place in Ubud or with a five-star hotel chef (we took ours at the Warwick Ibah)
  • Street food: It's great. Don't be afraid to sit down and order up
  • Morning market: Rally at 5 am and go. We went to the one in Ubud. Amazing! Huge, diverse, and real.
  • Ceremonies: we witnessed weddings on Lombok. Burials are also a big deal too. It's easy to go to these. I wish we had had more time to go. 

Food:
  • Dependably good and you can eat street food to your hearts content. Street food costs about $3 for a large meal. Restaurant main dishes are around $10. 
  • Nasi Goreng (basically fried rice with a fried egg on top), satay, gado-gado (stir-fried greens with rice), and soto (spicy soup broth with chicken and veggies) will be your staples. Take a cooking class because these are great, simple meals to learn how to cook.
  • Wine is expensive (get some at Duty Free on your way end)
  • Remember that if you stay on a secluded island like Gili Asahan you will pay a fortune for food and drinks -- you are island captured after all
What to buy:
  • Awesome gag gifts
  • Sarongs
  • Frangipani scented body products
  • Gorgeous furniture (worried about where they get their lumber from though)
  • Cookbook

Where to stay:

Bali: Hanging Garden (Ubud). Warwick Ibah (Ubud)
Lombok:  Our secret :)

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